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Waverly Rail Trail Historical Guide 
Cedar River
Looking from Cedar River Bridge south, toward Main Street Bridge in about the 1930s. There was a bathing beach and a sand bar called Sarpleys Island, that have since been washed away by high waters. Cedar River Bridge
Built for the Chicago Great Western rail line in the winter of 1902. After the Star Clipper Dinner Train ended its route north to Nashua, the Dinner Train ride would start off the first course by pulling onto the railroad bridge for some time, offering a view that could only be seen from the tracks by passengers and the occasional trespasser. The Cedar River was always sparkling with dancing moonlight and the railroad bridge lights, but that part of the train ride was a bit apprehensive as there were no high railings as you see today, just track, railroad ties and then the water down below. In the Waverly Flood of 1999 a rumor quickly generated through town about the pressure build up of high and fast flood water that would possibly break away the railroad and Bremer Avenue Bridge; wiping out massive residential areas of SW and SE Waverly, with rampant flood waters. Obviously, it didn’t happen, but tensions as well as the water were high that week in July.
 Carnation/ Nestle
Was originally constructed as the Mohawk Condensery where they made chocolates. Waverly had an abundance of Condenseries, Creameries and milk producers beginning in the early 1900’s. Carnation purchased the condensery in the 1920s. 
Waverly Brewing Company
Also near this same site was the Waverly Brewing Company built in 1914 for the purpose of making Heiberg Beer, but when the prohibition went into effect, the product became Country Club Near Beer and Cerex soda pop. In later years it was used as a poultry processing plant.
Chicago North Western RR Depot
Chicago North Western RR Depot completed in 1904 1 yr. after the road between Waverly and Oelwein was completed. Depot
Chicago Great Western Railroad Depot was constructed and opened for business in 1904. The rail line carried both freight and passengers. The section from Bremer to Waverly was abandoned in 1951 by the Chicago Great Western (CGW) and in 1968 became the Chicago & Northwestern RR. When the rail line closed the Depot for business, Waverly for the first time since 1864, was without an active depot. On May 5, 1985 The Star Clipper Dinner Train made its first run to Waverly along the, Cedar Valley Rail-a private owned line; and eventually rented the Depot from owner’s Grace and Milt Westendorf, as a boarding and tourism site for passengers. The interior Victorian styled dining cars were elegant places to dine and the slow back and forth swaying motion down the tracks with no water glasses spilling, was quite an experience. The four course dinner/with drinks was just under $60. In September of 1997 the Star Clipper Dinner Train left Waverly to conduct business in Michigan. The distinct train whistle, olive gray-green color and bright engine headlight are just memories now. In January of 1998 a group of people/investors interested in bringing a gourmet coffee shop to downtown Waverly, remodeled the inside. The Coffee Depot was opened for business until Fall of 2001. Step out of the Depot onto the trail and you will actually be on what was the rail road line for the CGWRC and the Star Clipper Dinner Train.
Courthouse
The Bremer County Courthouse and lawns are a serene setting amidst the hustle and bustle of a busy downtown area. The old courthouse was built in 1857 which faced the west. Its original rooms were heated with stoves and served county functions as well as social events, lectures and traveling shows. As government and city grew, more space was needed and in 1870 additional office space was built to the south of the courthouse. In 1936 an election was held and those in favor of building a new courthouse, won. In April 1937 some of the offices began moving into the new facility. History books state that as workmen were scraping dirt an onlooker excitedly shouted and pointed to two stone foundations that were just uncovered beneath the surface. "Those must be the foundations of the very first Bremer County Courthouse", stated the onlooker. A nearby reporter ran back to the office for his camera to get a picture of history being unveiled. After risking life and limb to get a good picture, the reporter hurried back to report to an old timer what had been found and photographed. It was the old timer’s job to tell the eager reporter that those were indeed foundations...... of two brick outhouses which had once stood in that spot. Another familiar item that graced the Courthouse Lawns were two Civil War Era Cannons. But when the call came during WW II for scrap metal (to be melted down) to help in the war effort, the cannons were needed for the good of the cause. The Courthouse up until 1975 housed the Sheriff’s living quarters and the jail.
Interurban
The WCF&N (Waterloo-Cedar Falls & Northern Railway Company) interurban train car was a familiar sight along Bremer Avenue from 1910 to 1954, picking up passengers at several locations in Waverly and proceeding to Denver and eventually Waterloo. At one time the boarding Depot was located where the renovated Big Six buildings are today. The route for the interurban started on the East side of the river, crossed the main street bridge to pick up passengers on the West side of the river (by the Museum) and then headed back down Bremer Ave East crossing Highway 3 to Terex, over the cement culvert to the housing area back there, then over Baskins Creek to Denver/Waterloo. From Waterloo it was possible to continue on the line to Cedar Rapids and Iowa City transferring to the Crandic (Cedar Rapids and Iowa City) route. The interurban car from Denver to Waverly was known as the "Waverly Car" as most of its passengers were either rural high school students completing their course of study at Waverly High School or country school teachers. The last run at night from Waterloo to Denver was often delayed to allow theater goers to catch a ride back. It also became the express passenger service from Waterloo back during the pre-prohibition days when Denver was "wet" territory and Waterloo was "dry" (no liquor could be sold, purchased or openly consumed). Often, suitcases of beer crowded the luggage compartment.
Aiken House Hotel
Sat at the corner of Bremer Ave and 3rd St. SE, Partially torn down in the early 1930’s to make way for Sheps Standard Station now the site of First National Bank of Waverly.
Brief Trail Info and Evolution
A brainstorming committee of city officials and community volunteers was formed in 1997. The old 7.5 miles of railway was purchased by the City of Waverly shortly after that with 70% grant money and 30% city funds. These funds covered only demolition and construction costs. Landscaping, beautification and outdoor amenities are being funded through donations from the public and local fundraising events. With the hard work and foresight of various volunteer committees, the city council and city personnel, the Waverly Rail Trail opened in Sept. 1999 and amenities are still being added. The trail is available to just about all outdoor enthusiasts including bikers, roller bladers, joggers, walkers and seasonal sports activists. Sorry, but no motorized vehicles, mopeds, horses, 4-wheelers, snowmobiles or hunting allowed. The 7.5 mile trail utilizes the old Star Clipper Dinner Train route including the old Cedar River railroad bridge. A name the trail contest was held with over 200 entries submitted. Gena Eichmann Mackamul came up with the winning entry name of the Waverly Rail Trail to help distinguish its origin and to help tourists easily locate the trail start. The trail is handicapped accessible and handicapped equipment and modes of transportation are welcomed. Many scenic outlooks and resting points give trail users a view of the picturesque countryside, river and areas of wildlife habitats that cannot be seen from our streets and highways. Currently, the trail is extended under Highway 63 North of Denver and continues South into the city of Denver. Eventually, trail members of both cities would like to see the rail trail expanding to areas such as Cedar Bend Park, NW of Waverly, Shell Rock, Janesville and Readlyn. The main body of water that can be seen from various points on the trail is the Cedar River. Once called the Red Cedar River for the many Red Cedar Trees that populated its banks. The Waverly Rail Trail Cedar River Bridge offers a magnificent view of our city dam and City Hall. The Waverly Rail Trail is considered an "easy grade" meaning there are few hills to combat. This low grade makes for a comfortable ride or walk for the beginner, with distance and speed combined for the experienced outdoor enthusiast. Mile markers can be found along the trail, with the starting point of clocking mileage beginning at Bremer Avenue just South of the old Depot.
Hohnsbehn's and Sons Creamery Supplies
Hohnsbehn’s and Sons Creamery Supplies-Tub and Barrel Factory now Kwik Star East
The factory made wooden butter tubs that were shipped all over. The Tub and Barrel Factory sat directly where the tracks were to be laid for the new Railroad. The new factory was built almost exactly where the Kwik Star Convenience store is today.
Early Waverly History
Early settlers such as Frederick Cretzmeyer built their log hut in 1852 on the East side of the Cedar River (or what was once called the Red Cedar River) with some of their later homes built just over the hill, behind the recycling center. William Patterson Harmon came to Waverly in the Spring of 1853 with the idea of establishing a town and a saw mill. Waverly was incorporated as a town in June 1859. Two stories exist on how the town was named. The speaker at the ceremony was said to have been a fan of the Sir Walter Scott’s Waverly Novels and when it came time to name the town (in which settlers had wanted to call it Harmonville or Harmon) he inadvertently called it Waverly. The myth goes that Jennie Harmon Case later wrote it was her father who was the speaker and that he made the decision to name the town after the favorite book, instead of himself.
Recycling Center
In this area a local lumber company provided storage bins for the Railroad to unload coal. The lumber company then sold and delivered coal to homes and businesses from here.
The Fosselman Brewery and Ice Cream Plant
Was located in the bluffs just above the GMT Plant Northwest of the trail. From 1910 to 1920 they produced ice cream which was put into metal cans which in turn was placed into five gallon wooden containers of ice. These were then delivered by horse and wagon to various merchants in surrounding communities and in Waverly, including the soda fountain at Meyer’s, Broadies, and Stauffer’s Drug Stores. The plant was purchased by Hutchinson’s Ice Cream Co. and then Borden’s Ice Cream. Schield Bantam Excavating (Koehring Cranes; now Terex Indust).
In the early 1940’s Vern Schield operated a Limestone Quarry and was in need of a small machine to load the lime trucks that were hauling and spreading lime to farms. The machine, built out of all used parts, was a success and soon brothers Vern and Wilbur Schield began production of more. A bigger building was needed and in 1946 the new plant (present location) was completed.
Barber Brothers Hanging (just before enter culvert (north of trail)
One of the most tragic incidents in early Bremer County/Waverly History is the hanging/lynching of the Barber Boys, on June 8, 1883 in this area called Murphy’s Grove (named after the family who owned the land at one time). In all the Barber Brothers were known to have committed six murders, many robberies and horse thefts and wounded a number of people. After a long manhunt by law officials in several counties, the brothers were on the run and near a spot by the Wapsie River they were washing up as the law posse came upon them. In their haste to get away they left their hats, coats, and boots. According to legend, the outlaws were barefoot from that day until their deaths. The brothers were captured after having a meal at a rural Waverly farmstead, whose owners in the meantime had rounded up the neighbors who surrounded the house armed with weapons. When the Barber Brothers went to leave they found themselves in a gun fight that resulted in the capture of the outlaws. One neighbor was killed and several more injured; creating high emotions among town folk. Bremer County authorities were concerned about the gathering mob coming into town to see the spectacle up close, took the brothers to a neighboring County; but were brought back, when those County officials didn’t want the burden of jailing the much sought after outlaws. Overcoming the resistance of Bremer County authorities at the Courthouse/jail, the gathering mob removed the outlaws to Murphy’s Grove area to be hanged. By midnight the town was quiet and the next morning the Barber Brothers buried. A trial was held for those leaders of the lynching and they were found guilty but no indictment was handed down. At the time, the consensus was that the brothers deserved a hanging but it was also an example of how emotions took priority over due and fair process of the law.
Wildlife then and Now
Included in this category in the early 1900’s were wolves,, poisonous and nonpoisonous snakes, fever carrying mosquitoes, deer, beaver, otter, mink and bees in trees that contained wild honey. Currently the following critters can be found along the trail, though not in high numbers.
Turkey, deer, woodchucks, chipmunks, garter snakes, butterflies, birds, owls, cows, etc.
Limestone Bluffs
In 1900 the Railroad had to blast through many limestone bluffs with dynamite when planning and laying out the track. At the same time, many trees had to be cleared all to ensure the railroad was kept at a 4 % grade. There are many examples today of the limestone bluffs along the trail, starting at just before the 12th Street SE culvert all the way to Killdeer Ave.
A fungus (non edible mushroom) that grows along the trail, currently, but sometimes can’t be seen until Fall, is the Giant Puffball Mushroom. They are round with some the size of a golf ball and many the size of a small watermelon. They sit directly on the ground or rotten wood and crack open to allow wind to carry away its spores. The spores can also be "puffed" out of the opening when the puffball is hit by raindrops or wildlife. When dried out, the mature giant puffball becomes a sack of fine powder. The Lakota Native American Indians used this clean, dry material in their medicine and often would pack large wounds with puffball spores to slow bleeding and to help blood clot.
Lime Rock Stone Crusher Old Quarry Pit Behind the bench to south of trail just before Grigg’s (Old Stumme Lumber property) :( Before 30th St.). Before 1900 there were two brick factories in Waverly, both North of the Courthouse-Selbig and Cretzmeyer brick kilns. It was soft brick and a number of houses that still stand today, were built of Waverly brick. The lime stone quarried here and in SE Waverly was obtained from these pits/bluffs. The stone crusher was used to excavate limestone and what wasn’t used locally, was then put on the train and shipped via rail to buyers.
Abe Lincoln Boulder (Between 30th and 39th/Grand Ave) 1/2 mile North of the Trail (by Dan and Sue Demuth’s/Old Monaghn Farm). The large Abe Lincoln look alike boulder in Waverly, was famous for a time. The crevices of the boulder formed a head configuration that looked like Abe Lincoln. This phenomena was featured in Ripley’s Believe it or Not newspaper column. The boulder may still be present today, but is likely hidden by tall grass. Natural Fed Spring Pond and Fish Hatchery near 2.5 mile marker
(Culvert area at Grand Ave by Kratchmer’s-South of Trail) This was the site of a natural spring fed pond and fish hatchery. The pond was dammed up to raise trout; one could go there and fish; but when it would flood, the trout would be swept away from the pond into the main tributary. Needless to say, this hatchery didn’t last long.
Big Woods Story (Some off of 39th/Grand Ave) and between Hilton and Ivanhoe to Killdeer
The Waverly Rail Trail skirts the North side of the Big Woods. Looking South of the Trail after you go through the culvert. The title Big Woods was given by area pioneers who were in awe of the expanse and quality of trees. Some of the species included: White Oak, Ironwood, Ash, Dogwood, hard Maple, Poplar, Elm, Butternut, Locust, Aspen, Black Walnut, Kentucky Coffee, Basswood and Linn. Inhabitants who came to and lived in the Big Woods included, the Indians (Native Americans- Winnebagoes, Mesquwakies, Pottawatomies) who set up camp in the wintertime and maple syrup season; Pioneers/Prairie People or "Big Woods Families" many who made their homes and farmsteads in the area south of Ivanhoe Bridge; those that the locals called "Woodchucks" who’s main income came from cutting and chopping wood to take it into town to sell; and the "Ne’r do Wells" or "Never do Wells" -mainly law offenders, thieves, etc...
-It’s also here in the Big Woods area between Grand and Hilton (east of Grand to the south of the Trail) where they found the body of a man who scorned a "woodchuck’s" daughter, when he would not take responsibility for the child she was carrying. The true story is one of tragedy in which the young lady shot and killed the man and was tried and served time for her crime. The story was written about in a Detective Magazine, but some of the facts were embellished and the woman sued the publisher, winning the case with a large amount of money as her compensation. Even though, she was known as a "killer" she was also generous with her new found money and the Big Woods children thought she was Santa Claus as she spent much of it on presents for them. Some of her family is still living in this area, and out of respect, we will not print her name....
Maurice (Maury) Telleen Pasture and Hayfield (south of Trail near Grand and before Hilton)
-Maury Telleen recalls the days of when the Dinner Train was running he had several Percheron Horses in the pastures and in the 1970s would use three of them on the corn binder on a small patch of sorghum raised specifically for the horses. The sorghum was put into tall towers of shocks that were visible from the train tracks. So with the draft horses in the pasture and the cane shocks in an adjoining field, train passengers could imagine it was either an Amish scene or a scene specifically set up to look like the 1920’s. At one time, Maury thought about putting up a large animated figure of Calvin Coolidge and planting him in the pasture to wave at the dinner train patrons, but no technical assistance was volunteered to set up the system; where the approach of the train would start Calvin waving.... Nor did the Bremer County Republican Committee offer to provide the larger than life figure of Coolidge, but it was a heck of an idea...One has to remember, the Dinner Train trip down the tracks held a bit of awe and wonder, as this route was not accessible by car or road... So being able to see such vistas from the trail now, is considered a luxury. Maury also tells of a time when the rail trail was first opened. Located on the Ken Nuss property was his bee colony, positioned in their "hive boxes" fairly close to the trail. At the time Ken was just starting to get out of the honey business (perhaps this sped up the process), but was still horrified to come upon some hikers messing around with the hives. Luckily, no one was hurt, but could you imagine thousands of angry honey bees buzzing down the trail?
Original Timber still exists: Just before you go under the Hilton Avenue Bridge, just beyond the trail to the northwest, is some original timber of the Big Woods, still present to this day! Located near Hilton Ave and 250th St.
Near Here:
As you pass under the Hilton Ave cement bridge to the south of the trail was the Cretzmeyer Farm; one of the first families to settle in the Waverly area.
Baskins Creek (East of Hilton on long wooden bridge) is named after a family who owned a farm near there; the late Mrs. Paul (Betty) Lageschulte was a Baskin and her father owned the ox and yoke that plowed the first field in this area, known as Jefferson Township. But to those living in this part of Rural Waverly, it was always called Thoms Creek for the Thoms Family Farm on Highway 3. John Meyer’s Family’s original homestead near here, went all the way down to Baskins Creek around 235th St. and Ivanhoe/Ivy Avenue. Kids in this territory found the Baskins Creek area and woods to be a great place to camp, hunt, find mushrooms and have picnics; those were the days when you could walk on other people’s property and respected it enough to not vandalize what wasn’t yours. John’s father, E.H. Meyer also owned some land that is now part of Ingawanis Boy Scout Camp.
(Baskins Creek is the first high bridge before Ivanhoe).
While passing over top Baskins Creek on the bridge, can you find the place in the description that follows? Baskins Creek ran through the site where road building crews set up their camp when Highway 63 and Highway 3 were paved. When the building crew created a gravel pit for the construction; after that when the creek would flow and hit that spot, it would disappear in the pit. From that time on, Baskins Creek never flowed beyond the pit, again. This was also a favorite picnic spot for the locals. Barnstormers Plane Crash (Logan Hoffman’s Field -Harry Steege Farm) North and west of the trail is the site of the first plane crash in the Waverly area. Barnstormers were a new and fascinating aeronautical wonder in the early 1920s. In the early 1930s, a Barnstormer took off in the field 1/8 mile before the Ivy-Ivanhoe bridge, going East. (Look to the north of the trail) The plane went over the road and the creek and it was speculated that the plane may have struck a wire and then eventually crashed on the East side of Baskins Creek or to the North of the bridge on the road. Kids in the area then made it their past time to look for parts of the plane during their play, for a time, afterwards.
South of Baskins Creek area is where the "woodchucks" would go in and cut the trees and is also the place where the Indians came down in the winter time and set up camp in the Big Woods and would make maple syrup and bury their kettles. There are more than likely some still buried there! The Ivy-Ivanhoe Bridge, just after 4.5 mile marker (by Moeller’s Farm) was built around 1900 when the Railroad line came through. Many of the original building materials are still existent, including the trusses and poles. Along this route can you identify the many places where the railroad had to build up the track and places where they had to excavate?
After exiting the Ivy-Ivanhoe Bridge; Near Joplin Avenue was almost all timber at one time, and very few homes were located here (south of the trail). Where the road turns and goes under the bridge-just after crossing the Ivy Avenue-Ivanhoe Street Bridge lived the Bruns Family (by the Joplin Avenue intersection) who had four lovely daughters. Much traffic went up and down this road and under the Ivy/Ivanhoe bridge because of those girls.
Killdeer Avenue -Together, Bremer County and the City of Waverly created a parking area for trail users who want to begin their trek at a different locale (south of trail before Killdeer)
Short History of Denver (Jefferson City) and The Jefferson City Trail
The village of Jefferson City was laid out in 1855 by Jeremiah Farris and incorporated in 1896. Jefferson City was the only village in the area with a steam mill, steam saw mill, a saloon, blacksmith shop and a good school house, according to local history books. No specific records state why the name was changed to Denver other than it may have been due to the confusion with a city in Iowa already named Jefferson. Like Waverly, Denver held a name the trail contest with Geraldine Guenther’s historically linked entry being the winner. The Jefferson City Trail begins through the culvert, onto the East side of Highway 63, turns south and goes into town. Pictures from the John E. Meyer Collection. Many thanks to John Meyer (as of Dec. 2001 is 82 years young) for his knowledge of Waverly History and information contained in this Waverly Rail Trail Historical Guide. Written and compiled by Kris Brunkhorst Feb. 2002 |
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